A Guide
To Spain's Quirkier Festivals
by: Mike McDougall
Spaniards seem rarely to
need much of a reason for a fiesta or festival
of some sort and you can pretty much guarantee
that wherever you are in Spain there will be
some merrymaking going on somewhere in honor of
a patron saint – I’ve decided to look at some of
Spain’s quirkier, slightly less known festivals
and enlighten readers as to some of the stranger
practices which take place at various times
around the country.
Our journey begins in the
east of the country in the town of Bunol in the
Valencia region where a week long festival in
honor of the town’s patron saint, San Luis
Bertran, ends in the famous “Tomatina”, a two
hour tomato fight where lorries bring in 120,000
kg of tomatoes for the locals to pelt each other
with. It’s all a bit of a free-for-all and it’s
usually girls pitted against boys for two hours
of madness from 11am to 1pm. Participants can
expect to get extremely messy and it’s advisable
to wear something old, and preferably red, if
you don’t want the stains to show up. Despite
the “Tomatina” clearly being the highlight,
there are many other facets of the festival to
be enjoyed throughout the week with fireworks,
parades and a paella cook-off amongst the most
notable.
Not so far away in the
city of Valencia, townsfolk revel for a week in
the festivities of “Las Fallas”, another one of
Spain’s more unique festivals. The raucous week
of celebration takes place in March and is most
notable for “Las Fallas” which are huge
papier-mâché figures up to 60 feet in height.
Built in the streets, the figures often have a
satirical edge; Tony Blair and George Bush’s
effigies graced last year’s festival. The
culmination of the merry-making comes on the
“Night of Fire” when all 700 of “Las fallas” are
burnt to a cinder turning many of the city’s
streets into huge bonfires. Undoubtedly the
local fire services busiest evening of the year
and certainly one not to be missed by visitors
to the region.
Next stop is Catalonia and
the town of Valls located about 100km south west
of Barcelona, where every year townsfolk gather
for the legendary “Calcotada”. A celebration of
food and in particular the “calcot” (similar to
a spring onion) with road side bbq’s char
grilling piles of them for locals to eat.
There’s even a hug pot of dipping sauce on hand
to spice things up a bit. The main event is the
eating competition as burly local champions from
all over the region line up to see how many
onions they can put away in 45 minutes,
apparently it’s not uncommon for the victor to
eat in excess of 300! After a winner has been
decided the town decamps to huge local
cafeterias where for a small fee the “calcots”
are served in plentiful numbers alongside
grilled meats and washed down with as much red
wine as you can drink. It’s certainly off the
beaten track a little bit and for that reason
you won’t see many tourists but expect a warm
welcome from the locals who will, undoubtedly,
be in high spirits.
29th June, the day of San
Pedro and we’re deep in Spain’s wine producing
heartland, La Rioja, where for one day every
year the medieval town of Haro is host to the
famous “Batalla de Vino” (literally “Wine
Battle”). Apparently the battle’s origins lie in
an ancient dispute with between Haro and its
neighbours. These days the fight is pretty good
natured with thousands of gallons of wine being
hurled around the battleground (a hillside
overlooking Haro). Like the Tomatina, this is
going to be a messy one and I’d suggest coming
prepared with some ammunition of your own, the
locals have been doing this for years so expect
to take a few shots early on. |